Eight of us stand at the summit of Jupiter Bowl, where a rope
marks the boundary of Utah's Park City Mountain Resort and the
backcountry, an area typically off limits to those with lift tickets
-- a restriction reinforced by a sign warning ''Area closed. Out of
bounds.''
On this guided trip, however, the goal is to spend most of our
time out of bounds. We will leave behind the ski lifts and groomed
trails, and enter a pristine region where we'll blaze our own tracks
through knee-deep powder and tune in to the sounds of the wind and
the wintering chickadees.
Ski Utah's Interconnect Adventure Tour takes skiers into the
heart of the Wasatch wilderness. In a day, we will cover 20 miles as
we ski to five different resorts -- Park City, Solitude, Brighton,
Alta and Snowbird -- stopping to do a few runs at each one; a sixth
ski area, Deer Valley, was added to the Interconnect lineup last
year. Connecting these resorts by car would require 75 miles -- or
about an hour and a half -- of driving.
''This is the only place in North America where you can ski so
many resorts in one day,'' says Rodd Keller, Interconnect's lead
guide and a 30-year veteran of off-piste skiing.
Adds Mark Menlove, another guide leading our tour, ''We are also
the only group that has permission [from the U.S. Forest Service] to
ski out of bounds in the Wasatch Range.''
The tour is geared to people just like us: advanced alpine skiers
who have little to no experience exploring the backcountry. Skiers
use the lifts at each resort to gain altitude, so there's minimal
hiking and traversing along the Interconnect route. However,
participants must be in good physical condition, since most of the
tour takes place between 8,000 and 11,000 feet. They must also be
able to handle a variety of snow conditions, which can include deep
powder, crud and crust.
Those of us on this trip range from our mid 20s to 60s. Although
we consider ourselves upper-intermediate to expert skiers, we are
all apprehensive about journeying into the wilderness. Skiing
off-piste demands specialized equipment, including avalanche
beacons, and a knowledge of the terrain and ever-changing snow
conditions. This is all provided by Interconnect.
Menlove calms our nerves by giving us a run-down on safety issues
and an overview on how to use our beacons and survive an avalanche
-- all skills we hope we won't have to use.
''Our first line of defense is to stay out of areas that can be
dangerous,'' says Menlove, as he checks to make sure our avalanche
transmitters are on.
Another key to backcountry survival is being prepared: A 40-pound
pack on Menlove's back contains a radio, cellphone, rope, shovel,
avalanche probe, climbing skins, first-aid kit, snow analysis
equipment, spare clothes, water, Cliff Bars and chocolate.
''Ready to 'drop in'?'' Keller asks, as the sun beats down on
eight inches of fresh snow.
''Let's go!'' someone says, and we slip past the ''Area closed''
sign and the resort's ski patrol shack.
Single file, we make our way along a trail that cuts through pine
forest and shoots us out several hundred yards later in Big
Cottonwood Canyon, a large snow bowl dotted with aspen and fir
trees, plus fresh untracked powder that buries our skis.
INCREDIBLE VISTA
From the top of the Wasatch crest, the main divide in this
region, we can see for 50 miles, including peaks all across the
range, the lifts at Solitude and Brighton, and the ridges dividing
Big Cottonwood and Little Cottonwood canyons.
As a New Englander, I have the least experience in the group
skiing in powder, so I let everyone else go first. I study their
moves, then hop and swoosh my way across an open field and down a
sharply graded slope, trying to avoid the aspens along the way. We
soon cross Guardman's Pass Road, a groomed route used by
snowmobilers. Upon reentering the deep powder, fellow skier Harriot
does a ''dinner roll,'' as she calls it, taking an impressive plunge
that leaves her embedded in several feet of snow with her feet well
above her head.
I help Harriot to her feet. We spend the next hour hop-turning
and dinner-rolling down the valley.
At the end of our long backcountry descent, we arrive at the base
of Solitude Mountain Resort. From here, we catch several lifts --
jumping into the ski-school lines to avoid the crowds -- and shoot
over to Brighton for several runs before returning to Solitude for
lunch.
At the Last Chance Mining Camp, we kick off our boots and fill up
on much-needed burgers, chili and hot chocolate.
Rested and warm, we make our way to the top of the Summit chair,
slip past another ''out of bounds'' sign, and prepare for our
journey across the Highway to Heaven, a dramatic 1,500-foot traverse
along the back side of Solitude's Davenport Peak.
''For some people, this is the white-knuckle part of the tour,''
says Keller.
AVALANCE TERRITORY
With a grade of between 32 and 40 percent, this is prime
avalanche territory. It's so steep I can reach out and touch the
mountain with my right hand. To my left, the slope sweeps down to
the Twin Lakes and a small dam. Keller and Menlove wouldn't let us
on the slope if they weren't confident we would be safe. Still, they
tell us to keep at least 100 feet of space between us.
As we're about to embark, Menlove adds, ''Also, you don't want to
fall here.''
There's no chance we'd tumble down to the frozen lakes at the
bottom of the basin. The challenge, if one falls, is that the snow
is so deep, it's virtually impossible to get up on your own. Jason,
another skier in our group, finds this out the hard way, halfway
along the route, when he loses his balance, tips over and spends a
frustrating few minutes trying to get up, until our guide helps
him.
It takes almost an hour to get across the Highway to Heaven, and
we all flop down in the snow atop Twin Lakes Pass to catch our
breath and survey the route we've just tackled. Then we drop into
Little Cottonwood Canyon and make another long descent to Alta ski
area -- some of us taking the forested route, others sticking to
open spaces with sweeping views of the valley.
We linger in Alta -- a collective favorite -- then shoot over to
Snowbird for several final runs of the day, before a van picks us up
to bring us back to Park City.
After nearly seven hours of skiing through large forests, in deep
powder and on steep slopes, we're all feeling a lot more confident
with our backcountry skills. We agree that you need a healthy sense
of adventure and strong alpine skills to do this trip, not to
mention a curiosity for exploring what's on the other side of the
ropes.
As we're returning our avalanche beacons to Menlove, we also
agree that it's great having two guides to show us the way, be there
when we need help and teach us about backcountry travel as we go --
plus offer pointers that will keep the ''dinner rolls'' to a
minimum.
Kari J. Bodnarchuk is a Boston-based travel writer and
photographer who can be reached at travelwriter@karib.us.
SKIING UTAH
• Getting there: Delta
Airlines flies nonstop from Miami and Fort Lauderdale to Salt Lake
City; other airlines fly there but require a change of planes. Park
City is an easy 30-minute drive east on I-80. Or catch a shuttle to
Park City or Snowbird (see http://www.parkcityinfo.com/
for transportation info).
• Ski Utah's Interconnect
Adventure Tour: Tours depart Deer Valley on Mondays, Wednesdays,
Fridays and Sundays, and include Park City, Solitude, Brighton, Alta
and Snowbird. A circular tour leaves Snowbird on Tuesdays, Thursdays
and Saturdays, taking skiers to Alta, Brighton and Solitude, then
returning to Snowbird via a different route. The cost for either
tour -- $175 per person -- includes two guides, lift access, lunch,
use of an avalanche beacon and transportation back to the starting
point. Tours run from mid December to late April, weather and
conditions permitting, with a minimum of three and a maximum of 12
people.
For information and reservations, contact Ski Utah at
801-534-1907 or http://www.skiutah.com/.
RENTAL EQUIPMENT
• Ski N' See (800-722-3685; http://www.skinsee.com/)
at the Mountain Resort Center, Level 2, in downtown Park City rents
alpine skis for $15 to $39 per day. Rental hours, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.
• Deer Valley Rental Shop
(888-754-8477; http://www.deervalley.com/)
rents performance skis for $53 per day (add $10 for a helmet). Pick
up equipment after 3 p.m.; return by 7 p.m. the next day.
• Snowbird's Cliff Sports
(801-933-2265; http://www.snowbird.com/)
rents performance skis for $40 per day ($10 extra for helmet). Pick
up any time after 3 p.m. and return by 8 p.m. the next day. Or try
Snowbird's Christy Sports at 801-742-2871.
WHERE TO STAY
• Hotel Park City, 2001
Park Ave., Park City (435-940-5000; http://www.hotelparkcity.com/),
is a luxury resort hotel with a mountain lodge feel, within five
minutes of the Park City resorts. Rooms from $199.
• Yarrow Resort Hotel,
1800 Park Ave., Park City (800-927-7694; http://www.yarrowresort.com/)
has standard hotel rooms and parlor suites in a cozy lodge setting,
with rates ranging from $179 to $299.
• Grand America Hotel,
Salt Lake City (800-621-4505; http://www.grandamerica.com/),
is a five-diamond hotel located downtown that offers easy access to
the resorts in Little Cottonwood Canyon and around Park City; rooms
(from $259), executive suites (from $289) and kitchen suites ($329,
including washer/dryer are available.
• Crystal Inn - Salt Lake
City, Midvalley (888-685-9300; http://www.crystalinns.com/),
20 minutes from Snowbird, near mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon,
has nice rooms starting at $77.
• Cliff Lodge at
Snowbird (800-453-3000; http://www.snowbird.com/)
offers slope-side accommodations, ranging from hotel rooms to large
condo units for $189 to $429 per night.
WHERE TO EAT
• Bangkok Thai, 605
Main St., Park City (435-649-8424). Excellent Thai dishes and an
impressive wine list. Entrees $12 to $25.
• Snow Park Lodge, Deer
Valley (435-645-6632; http://www.deervalley.com/).
The lodge's all-you-can-eat seafood buffet ($54 for adults; $25 for
kids 12 and under) is one of the best spreads in the valley, with
chilled shellfish, hot seafood appetizers, entrees, pasta, prime rib
and an impressive dessert table.
• Wahso Asian Grill,
577 Main St., Park City (435-615-0300). Award-winning and highly
creative Asian cuisine. Entrees are $26 to $36 and include
everything from filet mignon to wok-seared lobster tails.
• Chez Betty, in the
Copperbottom Inn, 1637 Short Line Drive, Park City (435-649-8181).
Serves American cuisine in a casual setting; entrees $22 to $38.
• 350 Main Brasserie,
350 Main St., Park City (435-649-3140; http://www.350main.com/).
Serves New American cuisine; known for its venison, salmon and ono,
a Hawaiian fish. Entrees from $21 to $32.
• The Aerie,
(801-933-2160), on level 10 of the Cliff Lodge at Snowbird. Offers
outstanding sushi, plus anything from lobster, roasted chicken and
beef filet to pizza and wings. Live jazz and great views of Little
Cottonwood Canyon. Entrees $12 to $36.
APRES-SKI ACTIVITIES
• Utah Olympic Park
(435-658-4200; http://www.olyparks.com/),
just 10 minutes from Park City: Tour the 2002 Olympic competition
sites, visit the Alf Engen Ski Museum, which chronicles Utah's ski
history, or ride on the world's fastest bobsled track (with a
professional driver), going at speeds of up to 80 mph.
• Sundance Film Festival
(801-326-2000; http://www.sundance.org/),
Park City, Jan. 19 to 29, 2006. The festival showcases many of the
best independent American films and documentaries ($10 per ticket,
packages available).
• The Viking Yurt
(435-615-9878; http://www.thevikingyurt.com/),
located at 8,000 feet, in the mountains above The Canyons Ski
Resort. Guests take a sleigh ride (with an option to snowshoe or
cross-country ski part of the way) to the yurt for a five-course
dinner (vegetarian meals available); prices from $100 to $150.