| Skiing: Where to Go: Rocky
Mountain:
Powder Perfect By Kari
Bodnarchuk
 Participants on the Interconnect
tour need to be in good physical condition, since the trip
includes several tiring traverses, between 8,000 and 11,000
feet. Photo by Chris Pearson/Ski
Utah. | Eight of us stand at the summit of
Jupiter Bowl, where a rope marks the boundary of Utah's Park City
Mountain Resort and the backcountry, an area typically off limits to
those with lift tickets. The sign next to us says, "Area closed. Out
of bounds," but on this guided trip, the goal is to spend most of
our time out of bounds. We will leave behind the ski lifts and
groomed trails, and enter a pristine region where we'll blaze our
own tracks through knee-deep powder and tune in to the sounds of the
wind and the wintering chickadees.
Ski Utah's "Interconnect Adventure Tour" takes skiers into the
heart of the Wasatch mountain wilderness. In a day, we'll cover 20
miles as we ski between and through five different resort--Park
City, Solitude, Brighton, Alta and Snowbird--stopping to do a few
runs at each ski area. A sixth resort, Deer Valley, has been added
to the Interconnect lineup for the 2004-2005 season, which runs from
mid December to late April, weather and conditions permitting.
 Skiers on the Interconnect tour
leave Solitude Mountain Resort to tacle the Highway to Heaven,
a 1,500 foot traverse on the back side of Davenport Peak.
Photo by Kari Bodnarchuk. | "This is the only
place in North America where you can ski so many resorts in one
day," says Rodd Keller, Interconnect's lead guide and a 30-year
veteran of off-piste skiing.
Adds Mark Menlove, another guide leading our tour, "We are also
the only group that has permission from the US Forest Service to ski
out of bounds in the Wasatch Range."
The trip is geared to advanced alpine skiers who may or may not
have experience exploring the backcountry. Skiers use the lifts at
each resort to gain altitude, so there's minimal climbing and
traversing along the Interconnect route. However, participants must
be in good physical condition, since most of the tour takes place
between 8,000 and 11,000 feet. They must also be able to handle a
variety of snow conditions, which can include deep powder, crud and
crust.
 Skiers inch their way along the
Highway to Heaven, a section of the Interconnect's backcountry
route that has a 40-percent grade. Photo by Kari
Bodnarchuk. | Those of us on this trip range
from our mid 20s to 60s, and although we consider ourselves expert
skiers, we are all apprehensive about journeying into the
wilderness. Skiing off-piste demands specialized equipment,
including avalanche beacons, and a knowledge of the local terrain
and ever-changing snow condition--this is all provided by
Interconnect.
Menlove calms our nerves by giving us a run-down on safety issues
and an overview on how to use our beacons and survive an
avalanche--all skills we hope we won't have to use.
"Our first line of defense is to stay out of areas that can be
dangerous," says Menlove, as he checks to make sure our avalanche
transmitters are on.
 Mark Menlove, an Interconnect
guide, leads adventurous skiers right into the out of bounds
on backcountry tours in Utah's Wasatch Mountains. Photo by
Kari Bodnarchuk. | Another key to backcountry
survival is being prepared: A 40-pound pack on Menlove's back
contains a radio, cell phone, rope, shovel, avalanche probe,
climbing skins, first aid kit, snow-analysis equipment, spare
clothes, water, Cliff Bars and chocolate.
"Ready to drop in?" Keller asks, as the sun beats down on eight
inches of fresh snow.
"Let's go!" someone says, and we slip past the "Area Closed" sign
and the resort's ski patrol shack.
Single file, we make our way along a trail that cuts through pine
forest and shoots us out several hundred yards later in Big
Cottonwood Canyon, a large snow bowl dotted with aspen and fir
trees, plus fresh untracked powder that buries our skis.
 An Interconnect participant from
San Francisco unintentionally showcases a "dinner roll," when
she tumbles head over heels while descending deep powder in
Big Cottonwood Canyon. Photo by Kari
Bodnarchuk. | From the top of the Wasatch
crest, the main divide in this region, we can see for 50 miles,
including peaks all across the range, the lifts at Solitude and
Brighton, and the ridges dividing Big Cottonwood and Little
Cottonwood canyons.
As a New Englander, I have the least experience in the group
skiing in powder, so I let everyone else go first and study their
moves, then hop and swoosh my way across an open field and down a
sharply graded slope, trying to avoid the aspens along the way. We
soon cross Guardman's Pass Road, a groomed route used by
snowmobilers. Upon reentering the deep powder, fellow skier Harriot
does a "dinner roll," taking an impressive plunge that leaves her
embedded in several feet of snow with her feet well above her head.
 A skier makes his way across an
open field, en route to Alta Ski Area during an Interconnect
tour. Interconnect has been running backcountry trips into the
Wasatch wilderness for 24 years. Photo by Kari
Bodnarchuk. | I help Harriot to her feet and
then we spend the next hour hop-turning and dinner-rolling down the
valley. At the end of our long backcountry descent, we arrive at the
base of Solitude Mountain Resort. From here, we catch several
lifts--jumping into the ski-school lines to avoid the crowds--and
shoot over to Brighton for several runs before returning to Solitude
for lunch.
At the Last Chance Mining Camp, we kick off our boots and fill up
on much-needed burgers, chili and hot chocolate. Rested and warm, we
make our way to the top of the Summit chair, slip past another "out
of bounds" sign, and prepare for our journey across the Highway to
Heaven, a dramatic 1,500-foot traverse along the back side of
Solitude's Davenport Peak.
"For some people, this is the white-knuckle part of the tour,"
says Keller.
With a grade of between 32 and 40 percent, this is prime
avalanche territory. It's so steep I can reach out and touch the
mountain with my right hand. To my left, the slope sweeps down to
the Twin Lakes and a small dam. Keller and Menlove wouldn't let us
on the slope if they weren't confident we would be safe. Still, they
tell us to keep at least 100 feet of space between us.
As we're about to embark, Menlove adds, "Also, you don't want to
fall here."
 Skiers on the Interconnect tour use
lifts at each resort to reach the summits--without waiting in
line--thus avoiding having to hike or side-step along the
route. Here, skiers ride Alta's Germania lift. (For the
2004-2005 season, a high-speed quad has replaced Alta's
Collins and Germania lifts.) Photo by Kari
Bodnarchuk. | There's no chance we'd tumble
down to the frozen lakes at the bottom of the basin. The challenge,
if one falls or does a "dinner roll" here, is that the snow is so
deep, it's virtually impossible to get up on your own. Jason,
another skier in our group, finds this out the hard way, halfway
along the route, when he loses his balance, tips over and spends a
frustrating few minutes trying to get up, until our guide helps him.
It takes almost an hour to get across the Highway to Heaven, and
we all flop down in the snow atop Twin Lakes Pass to catch our
breath and survey the route we've just tackled. Then we drop into
Little Cottonwood Canyon and make another long descent to Alta ski
area--some of us taking the forested route, others sticking to open
spaces with sweeping views of the valley. We linger in Alta--a
collective favorite--and then shoot over to Snowbird for several
final runs of the day, before a van picks us up to bring us back to
Park City.
After nearly seven hours of skiing through large forests, in deep
powder and on steep slopes, we're all feeling a lot more confident
with our backcountry skills. We agree that you need a healthy sense
of adventure and strong alpine skills to do this trip, not to
mention a curiosity for exploring what's on the other side of the
ropes.
 Skiers on the Interconnect tour
stop for lunch and a rest at Solitude. The resort's Stone Haus
village store, pictured here, is a good place to grab a quick
sandwich, cup of soup or hot chocolate--just watch out for
melting snow. Solitude gets an average of 42 feet of snow each
year. Photo by Kari Bodnarchuk. | As we're
returning our avalanche beacons to Menlove, we also agree that it's
great having two guides to show us the way, be there when we need
help and teach us about backcountry travel as we go--plus offer
pointers that will keep the "dinner rolls" to a minimum.
Getting There: Ski Utah's Interconnect Adventure Tour
Tours depart Deer Valley on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and
Sundays, and include Park City, Solitude, Brighton, Alta and
Snowbird. A circular tour leaves Snowbird on Tuesdays, Thursdays and
Saturdays, taking skiers to Alta, Brighton and Solitude, and then
returning to Snowbird via a different route. The cost for either
tour--$150 per person--includes two guides, lift access, lunch, use
of an avalanche beacon, and transportation back to the starting
point. Tours run with a minimum of three and a maximum of 12 people.
For information and reservations, contact Ski Utah at
801-534-1907 or http://www.skiutah.com/.
Kari Bodnarchuk grew up skiing in New England, but is still
mastering her deep-powder moves. She has written about outdoor
adventures, people and equipment for magazines (Outside, Sports
Illustrated, Islands, Backpacker and Hooked on the Outdoors) and
newspapers (The Boston Globe, San Francisco Chronicle, St.
Petersburg Times, Denver Post and Christian Science Monitor).
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